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Yeah! Burger Mostly Lives Up To Hype

August 25, 2011

Boutique burger chains are fast becoming a major food trend, and it’s not hard to see why. Joints like Shake Shake, Smashburger, Five Guys, and to a certain extent celebrity burger chains like B Spot take the quintessential American food, one often degraded and bastardized by fast food, and elevate it to new creative and delicious heights–all without the steakhouse white tablecloths and $20 price tags that seem to miss the point of what a good burger is all about.

Yeah! Burger is an Atlanta based store with two locations and an emphasis on natural, organic ingredients. The Triple B (a bison burger with bacon jam, blue cheese, and caramelized onions) caught my eye immediately since I’d never tried bison. My brother ordered a beef burger with the southern staple, pimento cheese.

The individual components of the Triple B were outstanding; The blue cheese was punchy, and soft enough to begin melting. The onions had a similar balance between sweetness and bite, and the bacon jam’s smokiness kept things from getting too sugary. The bun was pillowy soft, but held up under pressure. Unfortunately, the burger as a whole failed the true test of any burger, which is whether or not the complete package is greater than the sum of its parts. The ingredients here were so good that they out-shined the burger in its entirety. While each component was balanced in and of itself, the ratio of ingredients was off; the blue cheese overpowered the bison, preventing me from achieving the “aha, this is what bison tastes like” moment I was hoping for. When I broke a piece off to taste the meat on its own, it was a bit dry. It struck me as a pretty solidly cooked piece of meat, with no exceptional char, juice, or for lack of a better word, “beefiness.”

The beef burger had a bit more flavor in the meat itself, a more pronounced charred flavor than the bison. Really though, all you really have to know about this burger is in that photo, and it involves lots of melted cheese.

The french fries came thin and crispy; no complaints here. The sweet potato fries, while delicious, were not my ideal interpretation. They were cut in thick wedges (at least you knew you were eating a sweet potato) and covered in a salt/sugar mixture. More sweet than savory, more mushy than crunchy, these had great flavor and lackluster texture.

Yeah! Burger’s restaurant, in concept, menu options, and ingredients, impressed me immensely. The burgers had high expectations to live up to, and they fell a bit short.

Still, it’s clear Yeah! Burger is the real deal; the food is without a doubt on a different level than most burgers offered even at nicer restaurants. I would stop in again in an instant for another try. As if the burgers weren’t enough, the place does dogs, local ice cream, craft beer, wine, signature cocktails, and booze as well.

Photos by Justin.

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